By Tom Wiley | Photography by Miguel F. Asensio
Alfred Tennyson stated, “In the spring a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love.” Fair enough. I’d like to suggest, “In the summer a biker’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of breakfast!” Excuse the paraphrase, but this is Texas, and it’s damn hot outside. When I ride to eat at this time of the year, I’m thinking “go early, eat well, and be in some air conditioning or a cool lake by noon.”
The Times They Are A-Changin’
If you’re a member of the Baby Boomer Generation, you were brought up hearing that breakfast was the most important meal of the day. On television’s “Father Knows Best,” the Anderson family wouldn’t start a day without breakfast. Robert Young would be in his business suit; Jane Wyatt in a frilly dress and starched apron; and their brood in best school finery. Every morning, they’d be punctually seated around a table laden with stacks of pancakes, a couple dozen eggs, and half a hog of bacon. It was amazing how they could both chew and wear those 1950s “perfect family” smiles at the same time.
Times have changed. Most of our nation lives in the fast lane, so breakfast has become the most skipped meal of the day. Yes, I’m guilty as charged! But in a far recess of my brain, there’s still a voice whispering that it sure would be good to start the day with a belly full of breakfast fare. Motorcyclists may have that same thought when the leisure of time is on their side, as often happens on a weekend or when playing hooky from work. Breakfast can also be important if a 200-mile ride is involved and the weatherman warns that thermometers are going to live beyond the century mark most of the afternoon.
Signature Texas food usually involves chicken fried steak, cheesy enchiladas, or saucey barbecue. Breakfast, however, will not be denied. The number of restaurants expanding their hours to include breakfast is growing. Small cafes are springing up to serve breakfast to a growing number of urbanites living in major downtown cities. Out in the burbs, cafes appreciate the luxury of having a bit more space to work with. Many open early and take advantage of our mild Texas weather by offering outdoor sidewalk and patio service. For eateries in our smallest communities, breakfast and lunch may be their busiest times. The bottom line is, no matter where you live or ride, there’s probably a cafe nearby that will be waiting to serve you shortly after sunrise.
It’s What To Eat
There’s a small cafe in my hometown which serves only tried-and-true items on the breakfast menu. There’s eggs fried-your-way; simple omelets; basic pancakes; and biscuits and gravy. With plenty of customers queuing up to jump on the next available table, why would the owners fix anything that ain’t broke? Bikers, overnight guests from country inns, and out-of-town visitors heading to Market Day know that this is the place in town to go for breakfast.
Running a restaurant is a tough business. Many owners opt to follow the principle of KISS—Keep It Simple, Stupid! There’s a long list of cafes which folded due to an over-ambitious menu. Breakfast can be pretty straight forward. If done right, basic breakfast offerings can not only be good, but relatively inexpensive, and quickly arrive at your table. Everyone leaves happy and satisfied and probably never noticed that none of the coffee mugs or cutlery matched.
At the same time, culinary schools are cranking out youngsters willing to push the envelope, even when it comes to breakfast. Most are found plying their trade in our largest cities. Two features make their creations special—fresh and local. They have loyal customers who appreciate efforts to shop local farmers markets for herbs and vegetables and area farms raising free-range animals and products. Back in the kitchen, preparing everything from scratch is important. The results are totally different, turning even French toast and hash-brown potatoes into something supremely special!
Texas is a melting pot of cultures, and the one that has influenced breakfast menus the most in this state is Mexican. As an example, I hold up the ever popular breakfast taco, and I’ve held many breakfast tacos in my life! Numerous gas stations and convenience stores have survived by devoting a corner where an assembly line of workers prepare breakfast tacos for a stream of customers coming in the door. Tex-Mex choices don’t end there. Small town or downtown, a restaurant that doesn’t offer some kind of Mexican-influenced choices on their breakfast menus will likely hear about it from their patrons. Other cultural options include breakfast pastries—from display cases at a panaderia, to Hildegard’s fist-sized sweet rolls swimming in butter, to a dozen kolaches boxed and ready to go. It’s all good!
Location, Location, Location
While it’s true that good food, good prices, and good service will bring customers back again and again, it doesn’t hurt a local eatery to be in a stable and convenient location. If that location happens to be historic or unique in some way, well, that certainly doesn’t hurt, either.
Depart the main highway and ride into a small town and you’ll probably find dozens of muddy farm trucks parked in front of an aging storefront building. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out what’s going on inside. These cafes are successful because they’re casual, comfortable, and, more importantly, consistent. Waitresses know most diners on a first-name basis and refer to everyone else as “Honey” or “Sugar.” Breakfast is the main event of the day for these cafes. If a town is the county seat of government, there’s almost always a local cafe near the courthouse square. For decades, these eateries have been serving up comfort food for ranchers or farmers coming early to town to conduct business. Don’t be intimidated by the fact that you’re obviously from out-of-town. Small-town friendly is the official language, and it’s a hoot to listen to tales as big as the pancakes.
There once was a time when downtown restaurants in our largest cities were either a coffee shop in a government office complex or part of a high-rise hotel. Then, sky-scraping towers appeared, appealing to a growing number of residents drawn to downtown living. Following that, urban renewal initiatives spurred conversions of warehouses and industrial buildings into lofts and condominiums. Restauranteurs knew these folks wanted convenient eating locations that not only matched their often bohemian lifestyles, but also their educated palates. These cafes needed to make a statement similar to the neighborhood’s historic, artistic, or industrial setting. As the number of urban restaurants has grown, so has the fun of riding downtown to hang out at these establishments known for their interesting locations as well as adventurous menus.
Ride To Eat
With both a desire to ride and knowledge that the afternoon is going to be a scorcher, your eating choice for breakfast may fall between eating first thing or knocking out a few miles before chowing down. I’ve prepared a list of fun cafes open for breakfast that you might consider. This isn’t a Best Of or Top 10 listing. Everyone has their particular idea of what’s good and what’s not, so I’ll avoid that debate. These suggestions are scattered around the state and are representative of many of the factors discussed above. Enjoy!
North and East
Sun’s up! Let’s head to the Lakes Region east of Dallas. A great place to fuel a growling tummy is Bill Smith’s Cafe in McKinney. This local favorite opened in 1956 and has preserved that timeless atmosphere we appreciate. It’s still operated by members of the Smith family, and our waitress may be the granddaughter of one of the original staff. I’m starving, so I’m thinking about the Hash Brown Supreme—a mountain of fried potatoes, onions, scrambled eggs, ham and cheese.
The community of Alba is about an hour and a half southeast of Dallas, wedged between Lake Tawakoni and Lake Fork. There’s always a gaggle of trucks parked at Connie’s Place. This is typical of cafes found in just about every small rural town in Texas. There’s nothing fancy; the menu is straightforward; and we’ll still have gas money when we leave. Fellow patrons are farmers and ranchers. Whopper bass stories can also be heard at Connie’s at no extra charge.
Our buddies in the Tyler-Longview area may opt to ride to Jefferson for a late breakfast at the Bayou Bakery and Cafe. There are fresh pastries waiting for riders who want to grab and go. Or, a stack of pancakes can keep them going all day. That’s important in this historic town with much to see and do and miles of beautiful pines in every direction.
Houston
Riders in Houston have no shortage of restaurants! Fountain View Cafe seems to gather Best Breakfast awards every year. Preparing dishes fresh upon ordering and entirely from scratch makes a big difference. It may be easier deciding where to ride next than how to design your own omelet from the list of twenty-two options.
The Buffalo Grill has two locations, but has maintained features that have made them a success since they opened in 1984. Interiors are Southwest cozy. Just follow the queue to the counter. Go for the enormous hot cakes or one of their Tex-Mex specialties.
If you’re hungry for breakfast with a European flair, try the Empire Cafe. Start off with a specialty coffee. Several breakfast selections feature nuts and fresh berries. Or choose from any of their creative egg dishes.
Riders heading for a day of fun at the coast might consider stopping for a coffee and kolache from Mornings Kolaches. They can be found in Clear Lake, Pasadena, Deer Park, Friendswood, and La Porte. Heading north to ride in the Piney Woods? Not a problem. Ride to Trinity and stop at the Trinity Cafe next to Lake Livingston. It has a full menu of basic breakfast fare, and you’re a short hop away from Huntsville and the national forests.
Going Coastal
Mosquito Cafe is apart from typical Galveston tourist eateries. It is located in the historic East End District, and the breakfast menu takes every opportunity to step away from the ordinary. Start your day with Mosquito Benedict, poached eggs with sauteed shrimp and veggies in a hollandaise sauce served on a fresh baked scone; or be bold with Corned Beef Hash Tacos.
After a ride on the ferry or a cruise up Mustang Island, slip into Port Aransas for some morning nourishment. Bundy’s doesn’t shy away from an obvious island hang-out atmosphere. The chefs take some creative license with eggs—casseroles, stratas, benedicts, scrambles, and egg croissant sandwiches. Or keep it simple and enjoy a fresh pastry with your specialty coffee or tea.
Here’s some great advice when visiting South Padre Island. Skip the hotel breakfast buffets and start your day at Yummie’s Bistro. It looks like a small coffee bar, and indeed serves an excellent variety of coffees and teas. Yummie’s also makes the effort to keep its menu local and fresh. We always look forward to one of their specialty pancakes or waffles.
Austin
“Austin is Austin!” Despite gridlock traffic and a cityscape that seems to always be changing, Austin continues to cling to an independent “college town” vibe. Kerby Lane Cafe began as one of the first all-night diners, a favorite with musicians and students in the wee hours of a morning. Now, there are five locations. Try a Gingerbread Pancake or one of their Signature Omelets.
Years ago, when folks began realizing that South Austin was like a “whole other city,” Curra’s Grill was one of the places to see and be seen south of the river. Its menu is much more than Tex-Mex, and that includes breakfast. Life is short, so savor some originality.
If you want to experience some of that famous Austin “funk,” head over to Republic Square, a small downtown park, for the Saturday Farmer’s Market. It’s a happening! Mixed in among the booths of fresh veggies is a variety of vendors and food trailers serving some creative dishes. But, go early if you want to avoid the nasty “Sold Out” signs.
Head West
When I’m in Alpine, I always stay at the Holland Hotel. I love its historic setting. But most of all, I love that Judy’s Bread & Breakfast Bakery is just down the street. It’s a great gathering place for locals and bikers. Nothing fancy, just good solid grub before heading to Big Bend.
Lori’s Cafe is family owned and has become a tradition in Midland. It has a commitment to keep things fresh and local. The breakfast menu is two pages long. Load up on the Breakfast Enchiladas, and you may not have to eat again for the rest of the week.
One of the most unique experiences in the state is to rise at the crack of dawn and ride to the Elkins Ranch just outside of Canyon for Cowboy Morning in Palo Duro Canyon. You’ll be greeted by a cast of characters from the Old West and treated to a chuckwagon breakfast while overlooking one of the most spectacular vistas in Texas. Prepare to be thoroughly entertained!
Flex the Plex Loop
We wouldn’t be Ride Texas® if we didn’t offer up a couple of rides. The first is a loop—sort of. Because the Dallas-Ft. Worth MetroPlex is so friggin’ big and we’re talking about breakfast, this meandering loop can be run in any direction or manner desired. Since we have to start somewhere, let’s do so in Big D.
Small, local markets known for fine sausages and specialty meats have always been a popular tradition in Germany. In 1961, Karl Kuby brought that tradition to Dallas. Over time, Kuby’s Sausage House evolved to offer a full delicatessen, grocery store, bakery and restaurant. Add a side of wurst or a smoked pork chop to your eggs and toast.
Owner Mike Snider shamelessly admits to his intentions of creating a restaurant with an Austin hippie vibe when he opened AllGood Cafe in the artsy Deep Ellum District. There’s even South Austin Migas on the breakfast menu. There’s also a strong connection to the Texas music scene.
The quickest way to flex the Plex is to grab some slab. Take IH 35 E south; US 67 to Alvarado; then IH 35 W to Grandview. Whew! We made it. Exit to continue south on TX 81 through Itasca to Hillsboro. Head to Whitney and cross over its namesake lake. At Lakeside Village, pick up FM 927 to travel west through the rural communities of Morgan, Walnut Springs, and Iredell.
Hico is a wonderful example of a small town which understands tourism and its economic impact. Having the Koffee Kup Family Restaurant helps bring in the crowds, too! This biker favorite serves belt-stretching plates of good food, especially at breakfast. Pie for breakfast? Why not!
FMs 2481 and 1188 and TX 108 lead north to IH 20. But, we’re not looking for a fast avenue back to the MetroPlex. We’re here for the Smokestack Restaurant in historic Thurber. By 1900, Thurber was the largest town between Fort Worth and El Paso, where thousands of workers toiled in the coal mines or produced bricks. Go ahead! Dig into the Coal Miner’s Breakfast Special—a sirloin steak, two eggs, hash browns, buttermilk biscuits, and homemade gravy.
Ride east on IH 20, but exit for FM 4 and Granbury—always a fun stop to wander and shop. Then, take US 377 to Fort Worth. Of course, if you live in Cowtown, you’ll likely run this route in reverse. Consider starting your day at the Ol’ South Pancake House, just a short horned-frog hop away from TCU. Design your own pancakes from a lengthy list of toppings or try their signature Germans—light, crepe-like pancakes with fresh apple or berry toppings.
Bexar to Baron Run
This route connects two of the oldest communities in Texas. The name Bexar came from a town in Spain. San Antonio de Bexar Presidio was built in 1718 on the west side of the San Antonio River. The settlement that surrounded the Spanish garrison grew into Texas’ second largest city. One of the great features of the Alamo City is the character influences within its inner city neighborhoods. This is true of Southtown, a district essentially bordered by South Flores Street on the west; Durango Boulevard on the north; South Presa Street on the east; and Lone Star Boulevard on the south.
Taco Haven is located in a deeply rich Hispanic neighborhood along South Presa. Inside the large hall of a building you’ll find bold colors and wall-size paintings of Aztec themes. The Torres family has been serving authentic Mexican cuisine for decades.
The King William neighborhood is just to the west. Guenther House, a complex of museum, store, and restaurant, has been written about many times. But like the Alamo and the missions, it’s one of those historic San Antonio destinations you absolutely cannot pass up. When we order Sweet Cream Waffles, we opt for fresh strawberries and whipped cream toppings.
We’ll depart San Antonio on Interstate 10 West, then exit to continue northwest on TX 421 Spur, also called Culebra Road; it continues as Texas Highway 16, also called Bandera Road. In Helotes, we’ll turn north on Scenic Loop Road, then Boerne Stage Road. Take your time on this picturesque route. Following IH 10 back towards San Antonio, we’ll stay on the eastbound frontage road just a short distance so we can exit east on Dietz Elkhorn Road. Ranch Road 3351 is a beautiful Hill Country trail to the community of Kendalia. Ranch Road 473 will take us east to US 281, which we’ll follow north to Blanco.
When Germans immigrated to Texas in the 1800s, they brought their social organizations with them. Nine-pin bowling clubs are a carryover of those groups. The Blanco Bowling Club Cafe fronts the bowling alley which opened in 1948. The breakfast menu is as comfort-food-basic as it gets, but good and inexpensive—a real biker favorite any day of the week!
Texas Highway 165 and Ranch Road 2325 lead east to Wimberley. The Leaning Pear is well known for its adventurous offerings, something you wouldn’t expect in a small town. This is especially true for the Sunday brunch menu, where chef Matthew Buchanan has created a twist on Migas or Chicken and Waffles to the point that they are anything but traditional. Seating on the open patio is recommended.
Continue on Ranch Road 12 to San Marcos. Cafe On the Square is just across from the beautifully restored 1908 courthouse. This eatery is extremely popular with motorcyclists, along with students from Texas State University. We love the overstuffed Breakfast Burrito, smothered with cheese and salsa.
Who was the Baron? When Felipe Enrique Neri arrived in Spanish Louisiana in 1795, he graciously awarded himself the title of Baron de Bastrop. Such things opened several doors for him with Spanish, then Mexican officials when he relocated to Texas. His intercession was invaluable in assisting Moses and, later, his son Stephen F. Austin in acquiring permission to colonize the territory. When Stephen F. Austin established a settlement on the San Antonio Road where it crossed the Colorado River, he named it after his friend Baron de Bastrop. Today’s city of Bastrop is almost a suburb of Austin, but has retained a charming historic downtown district.
Texas Highway 21 from San Marcos to Bastrop closely follows the Camino Real, an important road that first entered colonial Texas in the late 17th century. Exit the busy throughway in Bastrop onto Loop 150, following it into the heart of downtown. That’s where we’ll find Maxine’s Cafe. If you’re on a suicide mission, order the Texas Monthly Stacker—a stack of 12 griddle cakes and a quarter pound of bacon!
ROAD SPEC- Bexar to Baron Run
ALBA
Connie’s Place
150 E Greenville St (US 69) • (903) 765-3608
ALPINE
Judy’s Bread & Breakfast Bakery
113 W Holland Ave • (432) 837-9424
AUSTIN
Austin Farmers Market
Republic Square Park • 400 W Guadalupe • www.sfcfarmersmarket.org • 9 to 1 every Saturday
Curra’s
614 E Oltorf • (512) 444-0012 • www.currasgrill.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe
3704 Kerbey Ln • (512) 451-1436 • kerbeylanecafe.com •
5 locations around town
BASTROP
Maxine’s
905 Main St • (512) 303-0919 • www.maxinescafe.com
BLANCO
Blanco Bowling Club
310 4th St • (830) 833-4416 • blancobowlingclub.com
DALLAS
Kuby’s Sausage House
6601 Snider Plaza • (214)363-2231 • www.kubys.com
AllGood Cafe
2934 Main (Deep Ellum District) • (214) 742-5362 • www.allgoodcafe.com
FT WORTH
Ol’ South Pancake House
1509 S University • (817) 336-0311 • olsouthpancakehouse.com
GALVESTON
Mosquito Cafe
628 14th St • (409) 763-1010 • www.mosquitocafe.com
HOUSTON
Buffalo Grille
1301 S Voss Rd (Voss & Woodway) • (713) 784-3663 • www.thebuffalogrille.com
4080 Bissonnet (Weslayan Plaza Shopping Ctr) • (713) 661-3663 • www.thebuffalogrille.com
Empire Cafe
1732 Westheimer Rd • (713) 528-5282 • www.empirecafe.com
Fountain View Cafe
1842 Fountain View Dr • (713) 785-9060 • www.fountain-view-cafe.com
Mornings Kolaches
2402-H Bay Area Blvd (Clear Lake) • (281) 280-8432 • www.morningskolaches.com • Also locations in La Porte, Deer Park, Friendswood & Pasadena
HICO
Koffee Kup Family Restaurant
300 W 2nd St (US 281 & TX 6) • (254) 796-4839 • www.koffeekupfamilyrestaurant.com
JEFFERSON
Bayou Bakery & Cafe
201 W Austin • (903) 665-2253 • www.facebook.com/BayouBakeryandCafe
ROAD SPEC- Flex the Plex loop
MCKINNEY
Bill Smith’s Cafe
1510 W University Dr • (972) 542-5331 • www.billsmithscafe.com
MIDLAND
Lori’s Cafe
2201 W Wall St • (432) 570-1701 • www.loriscafe.net
PORT ARANSAS
Bundy’s
112 E White Ave • (361) 749-4286
SAN ANTONIO
Taco Haven
1032 S Presa • (210) 533-2171 • www.tacohavenpresa.com • Parking directly across the street on S Presa
The Guenther House
205 E Guenther St • (800) 235-8186 • guentherhouse.com • Free parking on E Guenther St
SAN MARCOS
Cafe On the Square
126 N LBJ • (512) 396-9999
SOUTH PADRE ISLAND
Yummies Bistro
700 Padre Blvd • (956) 761-2526
THURBER
The Smokestack
Exit 367 on IH 20 • (254) 672-5560 • www.smokestack.net
TRINITY
Trinity Cafe
114 N Robb • (936) 594-2804 • trinitycafetx.wordpress.com
WIMBERLEY
The Leaning Pear
111 River Rd • (512) 847-7327 • www.leaningpear.com
